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The glamour of St. Tropez was born when bombshell Brigitte Bardot pranced on its beaches in the 1950s. On the Cote d’Azur of Southern France, St. Tropez sits awash in the glitter of yachts, the jet-set, and designer shops. But St. Tropez is more than a playground for the stars. The village’s essence is a breeze to uncover, and doing so yields some surprising and wondrous take-aways that just might have you seeing stars of another kind.

St. Tropez and the peninsula it sits upon push out into the Mediterranean, capturing the famous sunlight that inspired artists like Signac and Matisse. The landscape transitions from sand beaches to hilly vineyards, from parasol pines clutching rocky ledges to olive trees growing wherever they like. To absorb the natural beauty, run or hike the sentier du littoral, an unpaved trail closely tracing the coast westward from St. Tropez. I came upon it quite by accident while exploring the grounds of La Citadelle, a medieval hilltop fortress with pathways leading down to the sea. Follow the yellow trail markers to encounter steep rocky coastline, flat idyllic beaches, and groves of tall beach grass. Though the trailhead begins just steps from St. Tropez’s heart, the sensation of being enveloped between only land and sea is undeniable. Upon reaching Pointe du Rabiou, I turn around since the sun has already set for the day. Running back I’m aware of the salty sea air gliding in and out of my lungs and the swish-swish of rounded sea glass jostling in my pockets, treasures harvested from beaches along the way. The dramatically cliff-hugging Cimetiere Marin, final resting place of myriad French notables, signals I’ve reached the edge of town. A pause to take in the scene, and catch my breath, is endorsed by the first star of the evening, twinkling its approval.

I became smitten with my daily sojourns along the sentier du littoral, but other treasures tugged at me. The jewel must be the picture-perfect old port, where movies were once filmed, where yachts line up across from pastel buildings, and where people come to watch other people. Here the essence of St. Tropez can be most strongly sensed. Like breathing in a fine French perfume, it’s a complex blend of notes that one can’t help but find intoxicating. My favorite way to absorb it is from a seat at any café lining the Quai Suffren with a glass of rosé in hand. Before protesting too much about the rosé, know that this is not the sickly sweet rosé we’ve come to know in the States. This rosé was likely produced just up the road, and it’s dry and cool and subtle and fresh—in short, it pairs perfectly with the ambience of the old port.

I take that heady feeling and amble along the quai to L’Annonciade Museum. Housed in a former sixteenth century chapel, the small treasures nestled within fulfill my desire for eye candy more substantial than the (very beautiful) goods of boutiques and fashion houses. Vivid colors of pointillist and fauvist works depict landscapes just outside the museum’s doors. Works of international renown mingle with lesser-known pieces and vie for my adoration.

A bevy of beaches ply the sea, with the long stretch of Pampelonne closest to town, but it’s the beach clubs that make it feel so St. Tropez. The club that started it all, Club 55, hits its stride at 1 p.m. daily, when those-in-the-know appear as if by osmosis for a long, long lunch. Al fresco dining complements the natural setting with bleached wood furniture and cornflower blue linens in the style of Provence. It’s a haute yet leisurely setting where children play, adults converse or laze about, and dogs have it pretty good too.

Whether you fall in line with the rich and famous or fall in love with St. Tropez’ more subtle charms, there’s a palpable energy here. It starts with the landscape and builds with layers of architecture and people, art and shopping, food and drink. And don’t forget the stars.


Service Information
Sentier du Littoral – Map and information from St. Tropez Tourism Office, Ambassade due Tourisme, 45 Rue Gambetta, St. Tropez, France. Phone (33) 04 94 55 98 55, website ot-saint-tropez.com.

Café de Paris – 15 Quai Suffren, St. Tropez, France. Phone (33) 04 94 97 00 56, website cafedeparis.fr.

L’Annociade Museum, Rue Georges Clemenceau, St. Tropez, France. Phone (33) 04 94 17 84 10.

Club 55 – 43 Boulevard Patch, Ramatuelle, France. Phone (33) 04 94 55 55 55, website club55.fr.

The glamour of St. Tropez was born when bombshell Brigitte Bardot pranced on its beaches in the 1950s. On the Cote d’Azur of Southern France, St. Tropez sits awash in the glitter of yachts, the jet-set, and designer shops. But St. Tropez is more than a playground for the stars. The village’s essence is a breeze to uncover, and doing so yields some surprising and wondrous take-aways that just might have you seeing stars of another kind.

St. Tropez and the peninsula it sits upon push out into the Mediterranean, capturing the famous sunlight that inspired artists like Signac and Matisse. The landscape transitions from sand beaches to hilly vineyards, from parasol pines clutching rocky ledges to olive trees growing wherever they like. To absorb the natural beauty, run or hike the sentier du littoral, an unpaved trail closely tracing the coast westward from St. Tropez. I came upon it quite by accident while exploring the grounds of La Citadelle, a medieval hilltop fortress with pathways leading down to the sea. Follow the yellow trail markers to encounter steep rocky coastline, flat idyllic beaches, and groves of tall beach grass. Though the trailhead begins just steps from St. Tropez’s heart, the sensation of being enveloped between only land and sea is undeniable. Upon reaching Pointe du Rabiou, I turn around since the sun has already set for the day. Running back I’m aware of the salty sea air gliding in and out of my lungs and the swish-swish of rounded sea glass jostling in my pockets, treasures harvested from beaches along the way. The dramatically cliff-hugging Cimetiere Marin, final resting place of myriad French notables, signals I’ve reached the edge of town. A pause to take in the scene, and catch my breath, is endorsed by the first star of the evening, twinkling its approval.

I became smitten with my daily sojourns along the sentier du littoral, but other treasures tugged at me. The jewel must be the picture-perfect old port, where movies were once filmed, where yachts line up across from pastel buildings, and where people come to watch other people. Here the essence of St. Tropez can be most strongly sensed. Like breathing in a fine French perfume, it’s a complex blend of notes that one can’t help but find intoxicating. My favorite way to absorb it is from a seat at any café lining the Quai Suffren with a glass of rosé in hand. Before protesting too much about the rosé, know that this is not the sickly sweet rosé we’ve come to know in the States. This rosé was likely produced just up the road, and it’s dry and cool and subtle and fresh—in short, it pairs perfectly with the ambience of the old port.

I take that heady feeling and amble along the quai to L’Annonciade Museum. Housed in a former sixteenth century chapel, the small treasures nestled within fulfill my desire for eye candy more substantial than the (very beautiful) goods of boutiques and fashion houses. Vivid colors of pointillist and fauvist works depict landscapes just outside the museum’s doors. Works of international renown mingle with lesser-known pieces and vie for my adoration.

A bevy of beaches ply the sea, with the long stretch of Pampelonne closest to town, but it’s the beach clubs that make it feel so St. Tropez. The club that started it all, Club 55, hits its stride at 1 p.m. daily, when those-in-the-know appear as if by osmosis for a long, long lunch. Al fresco dining complements the natural setting with bleached wood furniture and cornflower blue linens in the style of Provence. It’s a haute yet leisurely setting where children play, adults converse or laze about, and dogs have it pretty good too.

Whether you fall in line with the rich and famous or fall in love with St. Tropez’ more subtle charms, there’s a palpable energy here. It starts with the landscape and builds with layers of architecture and people, art and shopping, food and drink. And don’t forget the stars.


Service Information
Sentier du Littoral – Map and information from St. Tropez Tourism Office, Ambassade due Tourisme, 45 Rue Gambetta, St. Tropez, France. Phone (33) 04 94 55 98 55, website ot-saint-tropez.com.

Café de Paris – 15 Quai Suffren, St. Tropez, France. Phone (33) 04 94 97 00 56, website cafedeparis.fr.

L’Annociade Museum, Rue Georges Clemenceau, St. Tropez, France. Phone (33) 04 94 17 84 10.

Club 55 – 43 Boulevard Patch, Ramatuelle, France. Phone (33) 04 94 55 55 55, website club55.fr.